The author’s physical condition in Darchen.

Darchen was a derelict; dusty and refused. When the author and Tsetan reached the town it was dark already, they pulled up in a guest house. The night they settled in was troublesome for the author. The open-air rubbish dump that passed for the town of Hor had set off his cold once more . One of his nostrils blocked, he tried to accustom to breathing with one nostril. However it did not provide him with sufficient oxygen so he tried to breathe from mouth. Still he could not sleep, his chest felt heavy and the fear never let him sleep for the rest of the night. The next morning Tsetan took him to the Darchen's medical college. The doctor, after asking a few question, declared that the author had caught cold and the effects of altitude. The doctor prescribed the author various medicines, one of which tasted like cinnamon. That night after having the medicines the author had a sound sleep finally.