The author was disappointed with Darchen.

It was dark already when the author and Tsetan reached Darchen. They pulled up in a guest house and it turned out to be another troubled night. The author's blocked nostril had been causing much inconvenience. Though he tried to get accustomed to breathing by single nostril, it was not providing him with enough oxygen. Tired, he started breathing through mouth. There was some difficulty in his chest and received a sinus attack and so he sat up the night. The next day on visiting the local medical college, the author was a bit relieved. The medicines the doctor gave were helpful and that night he had a sound sleep.

Few days passed, the author was roaming the town. The life seemed mundane and no visitors or pilgrims were at the sight. The few rudimentary general stores were selling Chinese cigarettes, soap and other basic provisions and the prayer fags. Few gathered men played pool at a battered table while near by women washed their hair in the icy water. This all was not exactly what the author had expected. He was told that in the season of Korathere lot of pilgrims visiting. All this came as a significant drawback to the author. It seemed that he had arrived a bit too early. It all disappointed the author.

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